Resonant Constellation

Day 6: Volcano & Area
8:00 PM
Today was another busy day, though we left a little later than hoped. We began our venture heading south towards the southernmost point in the United States. Though we didn’t stop there, we stopped at a restaurant claiming to be the southernmost restaurant in the U.S. The food was adequate, but not stunning.

Along the way, we also passed through Captain Cook, which is a town near the place where the real Captain Cook was killed. Apparently when Hawaii was made a part of the U.S., the Queen gifted the small plot of Captain Cook Death Scene land to the English, though you don’t need your passport to go there. This gives new life to the old saying, “The sun never sets on the British Empire.”

From south point, we headed to Kilauea crater, which has been continuously erupting for several years, though at varying intensity. At the main crater, we saw an enormous sulfurous plume rising from a mysterious hole in the ground, and many side vents periodically turning off and on throughout the whole time we were there. The smell of sulfur was not pervasive, but it certainly was present, and would have been much worse had the plume been blowing towards us (though if it had, we probably wouldn’t have been allowed out of our cars).

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Day 4: Mauna Kea, Hilo, and Waterfalls
10:00 PM (HI)
Yesterday was a slow, lazy day, so there’s really no entry, but today was rather busy, so there’s likely to be a lot. Starting out at about 9 AM, our drive to Mauna Kea began easily enough, but we soon encountered a poorly maintained stretch of windy, hilly road that led up to a state park visitor’s center. Soon enough, though, Hawaii’s typical excellent road quality was restored, and our ride became much smoother.

As we progressed into the saddle between the two large volcanoes, Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa, we observed intense vog (volcano fog) on the slopes of Mauna Loa. While Mauna Kea is more compact and has more varied terrain, Manua Loa appears to be a perfect shield volcano-straight slopes all the way down to the sea. The sight is rather impressive, and though it doesn’t appear so tall (even though it is at about 500 feet short of being a 14,000 foot peak), the most impressive facet is the sheer extent of the volcano-truly massive.

Our route took us up the slopes of Mauna Kea to the Observatory visitor’s center. Outside, they had set up a 10 inch telescope with a solar filter, and though there are only a few very small sunspots visible at the moment, it still drew quite a crowd. We were informed at the desk inside that our car was likely not up to the trip to the top of the mountain, so we decided to forego the trip and perhaps try it another day. From here, we decided to head to Hilo for lunch and then north to view some waterfalls.

Lunch in Hilo was rather amazing. We found a small family owned thai restaurant that was highly recommended by our guidebook. We ordered several dishes, including an excellent chicken satay, thai fried rice, an amazing spicy green curry, and wonderful noodles with thai basil, but the star of the show, by far, was the cashew chicken. The sauce, we figured out, was a combination of red curry paste and coconut milk, and was as unique as it was amazing. Nearly every time I have thai cuisine, I’m convinced that it’s the best thai I’ve ever had, but this time is going to be hard to equal.

We finally headed for some waterfalls on a quick hike, and discovered amazing scenery along the way along with some peculiar flowers. As usual, I’ll let the photos do most of the talking.

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Day 2: Kona-Submarine & Luau
11:30 PM (HI)
Today was a big day. Perhaps the best way to put it would be to say this: I took more pictures today on my digital camera than I ever have before in a single day (~530 total). I’d say that 60% of these photos are not really all that great for one reason or another. Perhaps 35% are okay pictures, though, and 5% are very good. One or two are actually great pictures, which is always encouraging-getting even a few right is always good.

We started the day by heading to the large harbor to the north for our submarine ride. We were very early, and consequently had quite some time to wait around. This we spent watching the ocean and surmising on the possible presence of sharks (which my dad hates). When the guides arrived, they told us that they only saw a shark maybe once every month which set my dad at ease, but slightly disappointed me. We were soon on the short ferry ride over to our little submarine, and after a five minute ride, boarded the undersea craft.

Immediately when we got underwater, everything turned blue. As we dove deeper, this simply intensified, and at about 60 feet under we basically lost the color red. Throughout the entire trip, we were followed by many Sergeant Majors (a small black and white striped fish which apparently like submarines), and while down on the sea floor, we saw approximately seven species of fish by my count including surgeonfish, yellow tang, pufferfish, and at least one eel. These were all most common among the several shipwrecks we passed.

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8:30 PM (HI)
Today has been a relatively quiet day, though we did get our first look at the island in sunlight. It is truly amazing-every picture you see of Hawaii is entirely correct-these are not staged nor rare-it seems that the entire island looks like this. I probably spent an hour just watching the waves crash into the rocky beach in the small bay next from our deck. There is something about the ocean that is entirely hypnotizing.

We went for dinner at a wonderful restaurant just up the coast, and had seats right at the water’s edge. Periodically through the meal (which was excellent), large waves would crash into the rocks below us and shower us with sea mist. We watched an incredible sunset over the western pacific. The golden-red sunlight reflecting off of the water, the light blue of the foam, and the sea-green of the ocean contrasted perfectly. I’m still kicking myself for leaving my camera in the condo.

Eventually, the sun went down and we finished dinner. I had a coffee with desert, and it turned out to be one of the best cups of coffee I have ever had (french press 100% Kona coffee, which I’m sure was completely fresh). I’m going to have to bring some back.

And now we’re watching Mythbusters on TV before bed. Tomorrow we’re taking a submarine ride and going to a Luau. I, personally, can’t wait.
LJS-8:40 PM (HI)

Day 1: Kona-Gravmas

12:30 AM (HI)

Let me just say this in my defense: I would have updated sooner, but my computer was practically dead. In other news, Happy Apple Day, everybody! First, though, I should catch you up.

I last left you in the Tucson International Airport, headed for LAX. The flight was uneventful, if slightly filled with a strange fishy smell. When I arrived at LAX, the usual smog haze on the skyline was surprisingly low, which bade well for our several hour layover. I quickly located my family (whose plane had just docked one gate down from mine), and noted that-poetically-my plane would next be flying to Albuquerque.

Luckily, we happened to be near a relatively good mexican eatery, so we settled down there for lunch. This initiated a period of time which was amazingly uneventful, though my stomach did settle down quite a bit with food. Following this, we located our terminal, and I set about trying to find somewhere to plug in my ailing computer (my dad had checked one of his bags, and as luck would have it, the new, fully charged battery he had brought for me was in that bag). Unfortunately, the only open plug was so over-used that my power cable kept falling out and refused to stay in. Of course, five minutes before boarding the plane, we discovered another power socket.

So we boarded the plane and took off, again without incident. I noted, however, that the 767-300 we were flying in was nowhere near as nice as the 747 we flew to Australia. This fact soon proved itself, as the climate control in the passenger cabin was discovered to be entirely ineffectual. We were in for a hot, sweaty, and stuffy 5.5 hour flight, which made it impossible to sleep. Certain members of the family who were not so used to long flights needed to be fanned periodically to counteract the temperature. My dad and I both agreed-this flight felt longer and was far more taxing than the flight to Australia, even though it was only a third as long!

The in-flight movie was Up!, and though we didn’t buy headphones, I still enjoyed it. I may have enjoyed it more than some people with headphones, actually, because I got to fill in my own dialogue and storyline. I must remember to watch more movies without the sound on-it is a fascinating exercise.

We did eventually arrive in Honolulu, a bit worse for the wear, and we took a shuttle bus across the airport to the inter-island terminal. I immediately noticed that the air was denser than I’m used to. It is sodden and heavy, which sounds much worse than it actually is. The humidity isn’t that intrusive-it’s just another causal reminder that you’re right next to the ocean. We took another plane on a very quick hop across the islands to Hawai’i itself-the big island, and landed in a tiny terminal which really reminds me of a weird cross between Burbank Airport in Los Angeles, and the Alice Springs Airport in Northern Territories, Australia. It is a bit different that both though-as far as I could tell, it was entirely open air. We walked directly outside, picked up our bags, then headed straight for the rental car place. A few minutes later, we drove away in a typical midsized rental car.

By the time we had landed in Honolulu, it was entirely dark, and in Kona it was no different. I had fun reading off the streetsigns and mangling the pronunciation of the local names-things like Wa’aki’kilualu’alopoko and Hiluikapo’oapoae or some such suitably ridiculous spellings.To the right of the car, the few lights I could see would suddenly end, demarcating the coast. We turned slightly, and I caught a sight I think I will never forget. The yellow half moon was at about 40 degrees in the sky, and cast a shimmering sheen across the ocean, leading directly to the horizon. I wish I could have gotten a picture of it, but I think the mental image will probably stay with me for quite a while.

When we arrived at our rented condo, things seemed to keep improving. Not only is the place amazing inside, we have a deck which must be no more than 100 meters from the bay. Sitting outside, stargazing, and watching (and especially listening to) the breakers roll in in the dim light of torches across the bay is simply stunning. I have no words for it now, so I think I’ll stop and say just this:

Merry Christmas.

LJS-1:00 AM (HI)

Day 0: Travel 12/24/2009
10:44 AM (AZ), 9:44 AM (CA), 7:44 AM (HI)

As I sit here in the spectacular and dazzling Tucson International Airport, slowly forcing some so-called “Mango Chunks,” (these taste…green. Even though they’re yellow…) into my reluctant stomach, I find I actually have some time to collect myself from this morning’s hectic activities. You might say that I woke up at around 9:00 AM to take a shower, and you’d technically be right. However, in reality, I also woke up at 3 AM, 5 AM, and 6 AM during a long and restless night. It seems my upstairs neighbor decided to stomp around his apartment at all hours of the night, then take a shower at 6 AM for no apparent reason. Wonderful.

This horribleness was compounded by a seemingly perpetually sour stomach which started several days ago and simply refuses to abate. The “mangoes” this morning were a bid to settle it, since I seemed to be craving some fruit. Even though these “mangoes” were horrible, I take solace in the fact that soon I will be in a place with some truly excellent fruit. Maybe I’ll get some real mangoes when I get there. The real kicker is that I usually don’t even like mangoes.

While reading through my old Australia Travelogue (written nearly a year ago, which in itself is mind-boggling), I noticed that we flew over Hawaii on our way out, and I mentioned that it was a place which I badly wanted to visit. I would never have guessed that I’d be going there only a year later. I think that I should continue this tradition of flying far to the south-west of where I live next year and visit New Zealand. I can dream, can’t I?

In any case, my friend Doug picked me up around 10 this morning and dropped me off at the airport. After a relatively quick check-in and security process (made only slightly longer by one or two inexperienced travelers and one extremely pushy woman), I came to my usual ‘flying out of Tucson’ gate, A6. For some reason, I always get this one, no matter where I’m going. Being an experienced flyer (I’ve averaged about 7 flights a year for the last four years), I’m always amazed when I hear that grown people are flying for only their first or second time ever (example: my friend Doug has been on an airplane once that he remembers). I don’t think of it as a novel experience anymore-an incredible one, to be sure, but not anything special. I suppose my several trans-oceanic flights make me rather more unique as well. I know very few people (outside the ones who have taken these trips with me) who have flown across both the Pacific and the Atlantic.

So, dear constant reader, that’s where I’ll leave you for now. I’ve got about half an hour before boarding my first plane of the day-a minor flight to LAX before setting off on the real adventure. I’ll next update when something interesting happens.
LJS-11:10 AM (Tucson)

Tomorrow is Festivus, so get thinking about your grievances and good luck with the feats of strength. Here’s hoping for some nice Festivus miracles.

I’ll be spending Gravmas (or Apple Day), my 22nd birthday, and New Year’s in Hawaii. Expect to see a travelogue posted here when the trip starts. I’ll add each entry as a separate post, but I’ll also set up a separate page for the entire log (like my Australia Travelogue). This trip includes a submarine ride and hopefully a visit to the top of Mauna Kea to see some large telescopes. I leave on the 24th, so start checking for updates then!

Note: you should also check out my new Travelogues page, which has links to each of the logs, and info on upcoming travels.

I’ll be on hiatus until after finals, but until then, enjoy some Taco Explosions!